The Best Laid Plans

We have some big news this post and make it with a tinge of sadness.  The heat in British Columbia and Montana, with the prospect for a lot more to come, got to Bill, who decided to end his trip in Whitefish Montana - at least for now.  Fortunately, the intrepid and ever resilient Mike was able to connect with three cyclists we met and is continuing on, albeit without Bill but in very good company.  Here's a little more on this.

We think its fair to say that the driving force behind Bill's difficult decision was the heat.  He doesn't do well in it.  This trip is also a lot different than our last one - which for those who followed may recall that it was pretty hot in sections there too.  Last time, we moved along pretty nicely on the road which cooled us off a bit even when it was 100 degrees out.  We were also treated to cold drinks along the way (frequently at our favorite, Cenex).  This time, we are mainly on trails and dirt and gravel roads that are pretty exposed.  While a lot of fun (and a lot of rough terrain and loose gravel), there were not many (if any) cool reprieves.  Mike wasn't necessarily happy about it but Bill was positively wilted - both not pretty and potentially dangerous.

Second, Bill didn't quite fully get the whole bike packing thing.  It involves carrying a lot of stuff and accepting that you have to plod along at slower pace than we did in our last trip -which means that you cover less distance per day.  This is because the terrain and climbs are more challenging plus you're carrying all that stuff.  Mike understood it from the start; Bill- not so much.  He thought he could somehow travel light (foregoing the necessities of tent and sleeping system, cooking supplies, etc.) and finish the whole thing in 30 days (or less)  - despite the fact that the trip blogs for everyone except Tour Divide racers showed that it takes a lot longer (45+ days). Bill realized this a few days in and was completely thrown off his game.  His wife Susan and daughter Claire were nearly hysterical laughing when he told them of this revelation, finding it almost impossible to believe that he could be so delusional.  It was sort of like if Bill announced that he was going out for a run and expected to run sub-four minute miles, something that sounds ridiculous to everyone  - except Bill, who would admit that he would need to get new running shoes to make it work.

Anyway, Mike gets it and is mentally and physically up to the challenge.  However, he realized that it would not be wise to proceed alone.  Physically, he felt good and was getting stronger, but riding companions would be good to assist in navigating and would add some general outdoor experience which Mike felt he lacked. (Surprisingly, growing up in a rowhouse in Northeast Philadelphia and walking around the local woods - Pennypack Park- does not provide the needed basis for successfully surviving in the Montana backwoods. Who knew?)  As mentioned above, while in Whitefish, we met up with a group of 3 through-riders  - a Texan, a Canadian, - both men - and an English woman.  We hit it off with them and they indicated that Mike was welcome to join. So he did. He is now riding with those three.  It also made it easier for Bill to drop off as he didn't want to leave his friend in a lurch.  Coming in cold to a new group obviously affects group dynamics, but the riders were very welcoming and Mike fit in pretty seamlessly.  He is now group's senior statesman (or ’old guy'). They’re really just super people and he could not have asked for better ad hoc traveling companions.

So it looks like its just Mike's adventure for now, and he can adopt "I" instead of "we" - at least for the time being.  

First stop post-Bill was Swan River where we managed to get in a swim in Swam Lake. Beautiful little spot and gorgeous riding. From there we traveled to Seeley Lake (lots of ‘lakes’ in Montana) where, on the way, we managed to skirt the Colt Fire, a forest fire burning near Seeley Lake, which is a nice little town and where we provided some business to the local “Showers and Laundry” establishment. Yes, there is such a place and it is as sketchy as it sounds. Still,  It was good to take a shower and get some clean clothes.

From Seely we traveled to Ovando, a welcoming little town on route that, while not strictly catering to cyclists, welcomes them with open arms. The highlight of the stay was that Ovando has free lodging for cyclists, but the lodging is in a teepee and an old west hoosegow (a jail for those that don’t watch westerns). Seriously. We took advantage. It was hot and not that comfortable but we got what we paid for. Oh, and there was another laundry and shower establishment, but not at all sketchy. Perhaps a franchise opportunity for those with an entrepreneurial spirit.

We are now in Lincoln, MT., after overcoming an arduous 6+ percent climb over 6 miles. And it was hot - again.  (Bill would have melted in the heat.) But we made it and are now camped in town.
No rain so far and temps are supposed to moderate a bit over the next few days so riding, except for he climbing should be nice. Tomorrow we are off to the Llama Ranch, where they do have llamas but more
importantly they welcome cyclists. Looking forward to it.

Bill will be following along, as well as churning out some miles in New England.  Who knows?  He may join Mike for the final 700 miles in New Mexico.  After all, everyone knows that it isn't all that hot in the Chihuahuan Desert in August.  Its a great time of year to cycle - and maybe even run a sub-four minute mile.

I’ll try and post a bit more frequently but unlike the last trip, it is a bit more cumbersome. Apologies in advance.