Almost Out of Montana ... Almost

 Since starting we’ve covered about 800 miles, including traveling through Canada, but we won’t be out of Montana until tomorrow. Turns out Montana is a pretty big state. I should have looked at a map before starting.

The past few days have been good ones mileage wise. We covered about 200 miles from Helena to our current location in Grants. The first leg was Helena to Butte. About 75 miles and 4400 ft of climbing  Long day in the saddle. Weathered two rainstorms and some thunder but no lightning so there were no concerns. It does get pretty hot inside a rain jacket, though, when pedaling. I think I was wetter from sweating than the rain. Aside for the rain the temperatures have moderated the past few days so that has been a relief. In Butte we had dinner at the Peking Noodle Parlour - the oldest continuously operated Chinese restaurant in America. Opened in 1909; excellent food. It’s on the second floor of a building that is on the registry of National Historic Landmarks. Narrow stairway, no elevator. Maybe they paid off an ADA inspector. It was next to Butte’s old red light district and seemed to be designed by the same architect that designed some houses of ill-repute. Narrow hallway lines with small curtained booths. Very odd, very different. Not something you’d see at, say, Nobu in NYC. Butte is a tired city that has been affected by mine closures but the people we met were very nice and friendly. Perhaps it will rebound.

From Butte we cycled to Wise River. About 50 miles and 3000 of climbing.  A few hike-a-bikes; extended 10 - 15 percent grades are not rideable, at least by me. It was overcast with moderate temps but some truly spectacular vistas of the mountains and plains as we wound our way south. It included some very fast descents, too  On a particular one, just after a short break, I had neglected to close one end of my front roll. Luckily someone was behind me because I was unknowingly littering the trail with my underwear, shorts, sunscreen, etc. if I had been last I would not have noticed for miles and would not have gone back to retrieve them. Perhaps they ultimately would have been buried in some storm to be ‘discovered’ 10,00 years from now by an archaeologist. He would excitedly call to his colleagues, “Look what I found.! A pair of underwear. Perhaps it was part of some burial ritual, but analysis seems to show that they did not do laundry frequently.” It could have been my footsteps in the sands of time. We camped that night behind a bar/saloon/ restaurant. $7 per tent, $10 if you want a shower. Sprang for the shower. (My friends from the old neighborhood - the Schmidt’s Crew - have some experience camping and drinking and would have felt right at home.)

We left Wise River for Grants, where we are now. A tough day. The last 15 miles of a 70 mile day were over really crappy terrain. The first part, though was enjoyable. Unlike the vistas traveling to Wise River, we spent a good part of the day on a service road cut into a national forest. Deer Lodge, I think. It’s like riding through an endless corridor of pine trees. Not much to see beyond that but you do ride in the shade. A welcome change.

My front brakes are squealing; I need to have looked at but there is no bike shop until we reach Jackson, WY, I think. The rear brakes seem fine, though, so no issues except the noise.

We’re off to Lima, MT today. Another day or two and we’ll be in Idaho, then Wyoming.